The most recognized name in quality stoppers worldwide!
The Original stainless bottle stopper since 2005.
|● Made of 18-8 304 FDA kitchen grade stainless steel
● Winery and FDA tested and approved
● Lifetime guarantee on stoppers and o-rings
● Custom orders accepted
| Made in the USA
All stoppers patented
Bottle Cap Opener!
Our stoppers are precision machined with FDA 304 certified 18-8 stainless steel.
Our machined threads are clean and precise, all edges are machined smooth and soft, no sharp edges.
Marketing Tips is full of suggestions when you sell your work at galleries or craft shows.
The Gallery is a display of artistic bottle stoppers designed by customers: *over 500 pictures!
Your artwork should sit or stand on top of the bottle.
The stainless stopper should seal the bottle, not be part of your artwork.
Find out how my stoppers were designed, go to the About Us page
How to turn a knit hat bottle stopper.
|With the stopper blank in a scroll jaw chuck, bring up the tailstock so you can round it quicker with little vibration, plus it's safer. A 2" - 2 1/4" square blank 3" long works best.|
|After the blank is rounded, I use a 1 3/8" Fostner bit to drill in 1.5" deep (tape on shank assures exact depth every time).|
|Now you have to use a 23/64" or 9mm bit and drill a 5/8" deep hole for the threaded stud of the stopper and for the mandrel. I have a red line on the bit to be sure the bit is in the jacobs chuck the same depth and a blue line 5/8" up the shank for drilling depth.|
|I prefer to shape the hat a little while it is in the scroll chuck because I can round the bottom edge and sand it so when it is on the mandre, you don't have to worry about getting the tool in too close to the mandrel. This is especially helpful if you are using the #2MT-B mandrel and have it in the chuck as I do.|
|Again, I bring up the tailstock for speed of shaping the top of the hat because I can take faster and slightly more aggressive cuts. You might also like to put a pencil line showing the depth of that 5/8" hole you drilled so you don't end up with a hole in the top of the hat!|
|After the shaping is done, using wire (I like guitar string) make burn lines as shown in the picture.|
|Please note: you have to either use a 3/8" bit and re-drill the threaded hole to cut off the threads because you will not be able to get your fingers inside enough to thread the stopper all the way into the wood.
Or, if you are careful, you can grind some of the threading off the stopper stud. I do either of these then put a few drops of glue (I use Tite Bond II) into the hole and push the stopper in tight. The Tite Bond holds very well because you are just filling in the space and once it dries, there is no getting it out.
The picture to the right shows how burning a few lines in the ball and the cuff makes the knit hat come to life.
| You can dye the hat any color before you do the burning. I have jars with each color dye, and some mixed colors, and just dip the whole piece in the jar then let it dry on a rack (an old oven rack works).
The hats on the right that are black are actually branded with Molly Winton's branding pen, it gives them a real "knit" look and really does not take a lot of time to do.
Have fun and be creative
How to Turn a Bottle Stopper
Making a bottle stopper is quick and easy. It's a great use of small
pieces of exotic wood and it makes an impressive gift.
A few considerations when making stopper designs:
* How will it look in the bottle not just in a display or on a table.
* Stoppers do not need to be tall to be attractive. Check out the
glass and stone designs on the Stopper Gallery Some are almost flat and look great.
This first method is for using the A301, threaded, style bottle stopper base.
Click here to see the process using the B302 style bottle stopper.
|Mount a blank (approx. 2"x2"x2.5" long) in your jaw chuck and bring up the tailstock (tailstock is not always necessary, it adds stability) and round as much as possible close to the chuck.|
Shape the bottom sides, make a small starter hole for the drill bit and cut the indentation for the stopper to fit inside. I like to sand the bottom and put a little finish on it so I don't need to cut close to the mandrel to finish the bottom edge.
|Use the stub bit as there's less chance of it wandering when it hits hard grain. Use a 11/32" or 9mm bit and drill the hole 5/8" deep; the stud on the stopper is 1/2" so the 1/8" further allows more glue room. You can purchase the stub drill bit here.|
|Continue to turn the bottom and cut a 1/16"-1/8" deep recess 7/8" diameter then cut a dimple as a guide for the drill bit. The recess eliminates trying to get the wood a perfect diameter (if it's a mm off, it looks like you tried and missed) it also eliminates an obvious glue line Even if you cut the bottom perfectly flat, wood always moves and there could be gaps where moisture and dirt can accumulate. I like to turn some of the intended design before inserting the mandrel because most of my turnings are about the same diameter as the neck of the bottle. That's a personal taste, and I like the turning sitting as close to the bottle as possible. I also turn several blanks to this point before removing the chuck. *note: if you use #2MT-B mandrel, you can leave the chuck on the lathe and insert the mandrel in the jaws as shown here.|
|This is a close up photo of stoppers that were done about 8 months ago. There were absolutely no gaps between the wood and the stopper tops. As you can see, the wood has moved and it makes it look like I didn't do a good job. With the stopper set in a tiny recess, this would never happen. We want your work to look beautiful forever............or at least 20 years!|
|The mandrel can be threaded into the wood either by hand or by inserting it in the tail stock and turning both the head stock wheel and the tail stock by hand for even threading. Mandrel purchasing information is here.|
|The wood is removed from the chuck, the chuck removed from the lathe, the mandrel inserted into the head stock spindle and the tail stock brought up for support. Be sure your spindle is clean so the mandrel seats, also the mandrel has a 1/4" x 20 tpi thread for a draw bar.|
|Using a drawbar helps keep the mandrel tight in the spindle while turning. A piece of 1/4" 20 tpi all-thread rod, a piece of wood with a washer and nut tightened up to the hand wheel after threading into the back end of the mandrel.|
|Turn final design. By the way, this finished design is a bit different than my original plan in the picture above because there was an crack that needed to be turned out. It is the same wood, the color variation is from lack of photographic skills.|
|Finish sanding and holding a rag with oil on with the lathe running fast. After a few minutes you can just take it to the buffing wheels using the mandrel to hold it. Then simply unthread the mandrel and insert the stainless bottle stopper.|
|Finished!|| Notice the stopper base is almost the same
diameter as the bottle top. It creates a comfortable or more appealing appearance.
|These are mandrels you can make to use in a jaw or scroll chuck for turning stoppers. Round a waste block, drill a 23/64" hole right through, insert a 3/8" x 16 tpi lag or carriage bolt but do not glue yet. Be sure the bolt is running true. If it isn't, I have a step on both sides and adjust the block in the jaws so the bolt runs true then re-turn the step. When that re-turned step is reversed into the chuck, it will run true then glue the bolt. Turn the wood to any shape just be sure the bolt protrudes 1/2" to 5/8". Note: if the bolt runs true, these are great, if it doesn't, it can be very frustrating. I just toss them and start with a new piece of wood!|
The process for using the B302 style stopper can be done two ways:
You can do the exact steps as above, after you remove the mandrel, run a 3/8" drill bit in the hole to remove
the threading then glue the stopper into the wood or turn the whole stopper in the jaw chuck as shown below.
|Mount a blank (approx. 2"x2"x2.5" long) in your jaw chuck and bring up the tailstock (tailstock is not always necessary) and round as much as possible to the chuck.|
|Use a 3/8" drill bit instead of the 23/64" and leave the wood in the chuck.|
|I turn the bottom and cut a 1/16"-1/8" deep recess the diameter of the stopper (13/16") then cut a dimple as a guide for the drill bit. The recess eliminates trying to get the wood a perfect diameter (if it's a mm off, it looks like you tried and missed) it also eliminates an obvious glue line Even if you cut the bottom perfectly flat, wood always moves and there could be gaps where moisture and dirt can accumulate.|
|Bring the tail stock up to turn the design, it does help with vibration. It's not shown in the picture but I do use the tail stock.|
|Just before finishing turning the top and parting off, sand and apply oil finish. You should just have a small nub to sand smooth. If you have my mandrel or a homemade one, the turned stopper will fit snug enough to be able to hold it if you use the buffing wheel. I've had a stopper or two fly because I didn't have a firm hold on it!|