The A mandrel fits all lathes with a #2 Morse taper and has a flute in the threads to make it self-tapping. The back end is threaded for a 1/4-20 draw bar. It is exactly like the #2MT-B mandrel but it will not seat flat on the jaws of a chuck. Put a 1/4″ rod or screw driver in the spanner hole to hold the mandrel makes it easier to unthread the finished stopper.
The B mandrel fits all lathes with a #2 Morse taper and has a flute in the threads to make it self-tapping. Because the body is thicker, this mandrel has the additional option of being able to be used in a jaw chuck for those not wanting to remove the jaw chuck for each stopper. This mandrel has all the same features as the #2MT-A.
You can also make your own as shown at right.
Mini and Midi lathes use a max. 10” length and full size lathes a max. 15” length.
The SS-155 mandrel is only used in a jaw chuck. This is for lathes with a #1 Morse taper or just personal preference. It has a flute in the threads to make it self-tapping and the spanner hole for leverage when removing stubborn wood.
The SS-152 mandrel is made to thread directly on the head stock spindle as shown on the right. No need for Morse taper, draw bar or jaw chuck. In place of the spanner hole, there are flats on 2 sides of the neck to use pliers. Thread sizes are:
- 1” x 8 tpi = all Jet, Rikon and most midi lathes and more
- 1.25” x 8 tpi = Robust, Laguna, Nova, Vicmarc, Powermatic, etc.
- M33 x 30 = Oneway full size lathes
The SS-157 is made for the Shopsmith lathes. The stud is 3/8″ x 16tpi and has a flute in the threads to make it self-tapping. It has a 5/8” opening for the headstock spindle and comes with the allen wrench for the set screw which is set at the proper 3 degree angle. This mandrel can be used for many projects such as ice cream scoop handles, shaving brushes, light pulls and some pizza cutters.