Turning a Pendant

These videos on using the Joyner Off-Set Jig were recommended by customers.

                                                         Scroll to see a picture tutorial showing beginning steps using the jig.
*note: the silver plates are the original and the red anodized are the new design.

Spreadsheet = this will show the various cuts you can create with each off-set hole setting.

This jig was designed by Richard Joyner in FL and is made in the USA.

                                              #1 Video: Capt’n Eddie Castelin, well-known turner, adds tips.

#2 Video: Tom Stratton, England: Very well done with clear instructions for beginners.

 #3 Video: Tim Rinehart: Good suggestions, Q&A, instructions on using the excel Spreadsheet.

If you find any other good videos on using any of my products that you think others would enjoy, please let me know.

Basic Instructions:

For a pendant, attach a solid waste block to the index faceplate using small wood screws. The size of the waste block should be slightly smaller than what you are turning. This makes it easier to grasp the finished piece to remove it.
Next match the 0 on the two plates and attach them with either set of provided screws. *note: I used the non-anadized jig so you could see the 0’s better.


Some turners do the back of the pendant first. Put a few grooves to give it a nice finish look or even do off-center cuts. Do not sand this too fine, it could slide on the double-faced tape. Part off  a 1/4″ disc .
draw.bar.1 draw.bar.3  Thread the draw bar into the end of the mandrel and through the spindle then tighten the knob to hold the mandrel secure.
Use the middle hole to shape the waste block and flatten the top surface flat.  Stick the pendant disc to the waste block, use the empty tailstock to apply pressure for about 30 seconds, this compresses the tape to stick more evenly.
With the mandrel in one of the off-center holes, turn the hand wheel on the lathe and use a pencil to make marks to see where the cuts will be.

Set the lathe on low speed then gradually increase the speed until you feel vibration then back it down a notch to get the right speed.

Use either a skew on its side or a small detail gouge. Do the same cut 2 or 3 times to get a nice clean deep cut. If you take one deep cut, some wood will chip where the cut first contacts. With the detail gouge, you can turn it alternately each direction to get a bevel on both sides.
Move the tool on the tool rest to make a second cut.
**Keep your hands on your side of the tool rest at all times.
You will be cutting “air” half the time so be sure to keep the tool steady on the tool rest waiting for the wood to come around.
When the wood comes back around, the tool does a small “jump” but keep it steady on the tool rest. After making 2 or 3 pendants, you will be a pro! Use pieces of scrap wood to practice various designs and write the number of the off-set hole to create each design.

 Cut the hole for the cord either with an off-center hole on the jig or with a drill bit held at a downward angle  These designs look different just by the placement of the hole.
Michael’s or Hobby Lobby have a variety of cord, beads, clasps and earring wires.

Tip: Tape a piece of paper to the index plate, use a pen to show where the cuts will be then write the number of the hole where you put the mandrel on that line. You will have samples of the cuts produced by each hole. You can combine off-sets with the indexing to produce thousands of variations. I do this on scrap pieces of wood and have them on a board with the numbers of the off-set hole written beneath them.


Corian pendant done
by Richard Joyner

To do this swirl effect, leave the mandrel in
one hole and turn the
indexing plate.


Making a lot of cuts evenly spaced on straight grained wood
to add dimension to
the design.

“Bear” Limvere
creates pieces
to scale for
doll houses.


Paint the wood, then cut to get a whole new look.

Once you make your first off-center item, you will see how easy it is and your imagination will take over from there!