Joyner Off-Center Jig Chuck

This is an eccentric chuck that allows you to make an unlimited array of original items
including pendants, earrings, box lids, bottle stoppers, compact mirrors, fridge magnets, etc.

It was designed by Richard Joyner, Tampa, FL.

This product is made in the USA

Excel spreadsheet allows you to see how various cuts will look, click to download;
this is an improved version: Instructions (in PDF format).

Videos with great instruction on getting started and refining techniques for the jig:



**Tom Stratton, England: Very well done with clear instructions for beginners.


** Tim Rinehart: Good suggestions, Q&A, instructions on using the excel Spreadsheet.


Basic Instructions:

For a pendant, attach a solid waste block to the index faceplate using small wood screws. The size of the waste block should be slightly smaller than what you are turning. This makes it easier to grasp the finished piece to remove it. The small circle is where I cut the hole for the cord on a pendant, it also helps line up the pendant if you need to finish the other finish the other side, too.
Next match the 0 on the two plates and attach them with either set of provided screws.

**the allen screws have smaller heads and don’t interfere when the mandrel is threaded in a few of the outside holes.

**the thumb screws are easier to hand loosen when using the indexing holes for your design.
I find using 2 screws holds the plates secure.

Some turners do the back of the pendant first. Put a few grooves to give it a nice finish look or even do off-center cuts. Do not sand this too fine, it could slide on the double-faced tape. Part off about a 1/4″ disc .
A drawbar is easy to make. You need a length of 1/4″ x 20 tpi all-thread rod; drill a hole in a block of wood, a washer and a lock nut. Run the rod through the headstock, thread it into the end of the mandrel and tighten wood to the hand wheel.
Thread the mandrel in the middle hole to shape the waste block and be sure to have the top surface flat but sanded for the double-face tape to adhere. Turn a slight concave if you like your pendants curved rather than flat. Stick the pendant disc to the waste block, then I use the empty tailstock to apply pressure for about 30 seconds, this compresses the tape to stick more evenly. With the mandrel in the center hole, clean up the surface of the pendant.
Thread the mandrel in any off-center hole and you are ready to decorate your project. Leaving the mandrel in one of those holes and moving the indexing plate 1 or 2 holes either way will give you a comet-tail effect like the bottle stopper pictured at the top of this page. The #8 hole is the best for making the cord hole on the pendant.
With the mandrel threaded into one of the off-center holes, turn the hand wheel on the lathe and use a pencil to make marks to see where the cuts will be. *note: I’ll bet you noticed there is no pencil in this picture!
Be sure the lathe is on a low speed to start then gradually raise the speed until you feel vibration then back it down a notch to get the right speed.
Use either a skew on its side or a small detail gouge. Do the same cut 2 or 3 times to get a nice clean deep cut. If you take one deep cut, some wood with chip where the cut first contacts. With the detail gouge, you can turn it alternately each direction to get a cut beveled in on both sides.
Move the tool on the tool rest to make a second cut.
**Keep your hands on the outside of the tool rest at all times.
You will be cutting “air” half the time so be sure to keep the tool sitting
on the tool rest waiting for the wood to come around.
When the wood comes back around, the tool does a small “jump” but keep it steady on the tool rest. After making 2 or 3 pendants, you will be a pro! Use pieces of scrap wood to practice various designs and write the number of the off-set hole to create each design. There are 444,000 design possibilities ….. I’ve done 7!

 Finished!    Cut the hole for the cord either with an off-center hole on the jig for thicker cord or with a small drill bit held at a downward angle for thinner cord. These designs look different just by the placement of the hole. You will see in the “Turning Gallery” where a lot of turners cut the hole using the mandrel in one of the off-set holes which gives it a nice look with leather or thicker string.
Michael’s or Hobby Lobby have a variety of cord, beads, clasps and earring wires.

Tip: attach a thin piece of wood to the index plate, put a piece of paper and mark the size of your project. Use a marker or pencil to show where the cuts will be then write the number of the hole where you put the mandrel. You will have samples of the cuts produced by each hole. You can combine off-sets with the indexing to produce thousands of variations. I do this on scrap pieces of wood and have them on a board with the numbers of the off-set hole written beneath them. This is a good idea because you will forget which hole made which design.


Corian pendant done
by Richard Joyner

To do this swirl effect, leave the mandrel in
one hole and turn the
indexing plate.


Making a lot of cuts evenly spaced on straight grained wood
to add dimension to
the design.

“Bear” Limvere
creates pieces
to scale for
doll houses.


Paint the wood, then cut to get a whole new look.

Once you make your first off-center item, you will see how easy it is and your imagination will take over from there! Go to “Turning Gallery” to see more creations